A mechanical switch is the individual spring-loaded mechanism under each key of a mechanical keyboard, and it determines how the key feels, sounds and registers a press. For gaming PCs it matters because the switch type (linear, tactile or clicky), its actuation force and its travel distance shape comfort, accuracy and noise during long sessions.
What a Mechanical Switch Is
Each key on a mechanical keyboard sits on its own switch rather than on a shared rubber membrane. A switch has four main parts: a plastic housing, a stem that moves when you press the key, a spring that pushes it back up, and metal contacts that close an electrical circuit. When the stem travels far enough, the contacts touch and the keyboard sends a keypress to the PC. Because every key has its own switch, they can be replaced individually on boards with hot-swap sockets, and many switch models are sold separately by their makers.
How It Works: Travel and Actuation
Two measurements define most switches. Actuation force, in grams, is the pressure needed to register a key. Actuation point, in millimetres, is how far the key must move before it registers. Total travel is the full distance to the bottom. Guides describe the common standard as an actuation point around 2 mm of roughly 4 mm total travel, with lighter or “speed” variants registering earlier. For example, the maker lists Cherry MX Speed Silver at about 1.2 mm actuation. Bottom-out force is higher than actuation force because the spring keeps compressing, and many reviewers argue the full force curve matters more than the single number.
The Three Main Switch Types
| Type | Feel | Sound | Common examples (colour name) | Typical force | Best for |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Linear | Smooth from top to bottom, no bump | Quiet to moderate | Red, Black, Yellow | 45 to 60 g | Fast, repeated key presses in games |
| Tactile | A bump partway down the stroke | Moderate | Brown | 45 to 55 g | Mixed typing and gaming |
| Clicky | Bump plus an audible click | Loud | Blue, Green | 50 to 80 g | Typing; poor fit for shared rooms or voice chat |
The colour names above follow the convention popularised by Cherry MX, and other makers use their own colours and numbers. A colour from one maker does not guarantee the same feel as the same colour from another, so read the specification sheet.
Why It Matters for Gaming PCs
- Control. Linear switches are commonly favoured in games because nothing interrupts the stroke when pressing a key repeatedly, such as strafing or tapping abilities.
- Fatigue. Lighter switches (roughly 40 to 45 g) ask less of your fingers over long sessions, while heavier switches (about 55 to 65 g) can reduce accidental presses.
- Noise. Clicky switches are audible on voice chat. This is a common reason streamers and shared-space players avoid them, and a reason a keyboard may be picked up by a microphone.
- Speed and rapid input. Short pre-travel switches register earlier, which some players like, though reviewers note it also increases accidental presses.
- Maintenance. Switches are rated for tens of millions of presses by their makers, so the keyboard usually outlasts membrane boards.
Newer Switch Technologies
Some gaming keyboards use magnetic (Hall effect) or optical switches instead of metal contacts. These detect key position with a magnetic field or a beam of light, allowing adjustable actuation points and, on some models, rapid trigger features in the companion software. They are still “mechanical” in feel because they use a spring and stem, but they work differently inside. Check the keyboard’s specification to see which technology it uses.
How to Check or Set This on Your Own System
- Find the switch name in the product listing or the manual. It is usually stated as a colour, a model name, or a type such as “linear”.
- If the keyboard is hot-swappable, pull a keycap and look at the switch housing, which commonly carries a logo or marking, then compare against the maker’s list.
- Look for the actuation force and travel figures in the specification sheet.
- Test the board in a shop or a friend’s setup if you can. Feel is subjective, and switch testers are sold for comparing types.
- For adjustable boards, open the maker’s configuration tool and set actuation points conservatively. Very early actuation can cause unwanted inputs while typing.
Nothing needs to be set in Windows for a mechanical switch itself. The operating system treats the keyboard like any other. Only the keyboard’s own software controls switch-related behaviour, such as actuation distance on adjustable models.
Common Misconceptions
- “Clicky switches are more accurate.” The click signals actuation but does not make the press more accurate.
- “Red switches are always the best for gaming.” They are popular, but preference varies, and many players enjoy tactile switches.
- “Mechanical means faster response.” Response speed depends on the keyboard’s scan and polling rate, not the switch category alone.
- “Louder means more durable.” Durability ratings are set by the maker and are not related to sound.
- “Every red switch feels the same.” Spring weight, stem material and lubrication differ between makers.
When to Care and When to Ignore It
Care about the switch if you spend hours at the keyboard, share a room, or play competitive games where every press counts. Ignore the finer details if you mostly use a controller, or if you only want a decent keyboard for occasional use. In that case any mainstream linear or tactile switch will do. Keep in mind that keycaps, case design, stabilisers and sound-dampening foam also change the overall feel.
Switch Sounds, Lubrication and Feel
Two keyboards with the same switch name can feel quite different. Case material, plate stiffness, foam dampening and the keycaps all influence the sound, often described by enthusiasts as “thocky” (deeper) or “clacky” (sharper). Some makers pre-lubricate their switches at the factory to reduce friction and spring ping, and hobbyists sometimes lubricate them by hand. Hand modifications take time and may affect the warranty, so they are optional rather than necessary.
Stabilisers, the small wire assemblies under longer keys like Space and Shift, matter too. Rattly stabilisers can make an otherwise good board feel cheap. If you are buying online, read reviewer impressions of the specific model rather than relying on the switch name alone, and look at the return policy so you can try the board for yourself. Remember that fashion in this hobby moves quickly, but a mainstream switch from an established maker is a reliable starting point.
Frequently Asked Questions
What is the best mechanical switch for gaming?
There is no single best switch. Linear switches such as reds are the common starting point, while tactile and magnetic options suit players who want feedback or adjustable settings.
What does actuation force mean?
It is the amount of pressure, measured in grams, required to register a key. Lower numbers feel lighter and heavier numbers need more deliberate presses.
Are mechanical switches louder than regular keyboards?
Often yes, especially clicky types. Linear switches with sound-dampening can be quiet, but a mechanical board is usually louder than a membrane one.
Can I replace switches without soldering?
On a hot-swap keyboard you can pull switches with a tool and push in new ones. Boards without sockets need soldering, which may void the warranty.
Do magnetic switches count as mechanical?
Makers market them as mechanical-feel switches, since they still use a stem and spring, though they sense position magnetically rather than through metal contacts.
